Feeding young garter snakes up to 18 months of age
Patrick brümmer
A practical report based on several years of experience keeping these snakes
Table of contents
● Introduction
● Feeding intervals – adjusted according to age
● Types and quality of food
● Preparing food
● Food rotation – a structured process
● Why food types should not be mixed
● Thiaminase – a key issue for fish-eating snakes
● What is thiaminase?
● Why Korvemin does not compensate for thiaminase
● Dealing with refusal to feed
● Wet moss as a safety zone
● Emergency food: live guppies
● Why earthworms are only used in exceptional cases
● Practical implementation in everyday life – the feeding plan
● Terrarium structure and safety
● Conclusion
● Introduction
The successful breeding of garter snakes (Thamnophis spp.) places special demands on husbandry and feeding. Especially in the first months of life, young animals are sensitive to the type of food, feeding intervals and food presentation. Mistakes in this area can affect not only growth and condition, but also neurological health in the long term.
The following article describes my personal experiences from several years of keeping and breeding garter snakes.
The method described has proven itself in my practice, but does not represent a universal standard. There are various approaches that work – this article aims to present one of them in a comprehensible and practical way.
● Feeding intervals – adjusted according to age
Young animals have a significantly higher metabolism than adult animals. For this reason, I consider a gradual extension of the feeding intervals to be sensible.
Proven schedule:
0–3 months: feeding every 3 days
Month 4: feeding every 4 days
Month 5: feeding every 5 days
From the 6th to approx. 18th month of life: feeding every 6 days
This adjustment supports even development and prevents overfeeding.
● Types and quality of food
I only use types of food that have proven to be well tolerated over many years:
Frozen baby mice
Frozen baby rats
Frozen fat mice
Fresh trout from regional fishmongers
Chicken hearts as an occasional supplement
The trout comes from regional suppliers, ensuring freshness and quality.
● Preparation of food
All types of food are cut into small, bite-sized pieces before thawing.
This applies to rodents, trout and chicken hearts. The food is then thawed completely.
This procedure:
makes it easier for young animals to eat
prevents swallowing problems
enables precise portioning
● Feed rotation – structured process
To avoid an unbalanced diet, I use a fixed feed rotation:
Rodents
Trout
Rodents
Trout + Korvemin
Rodents
Trout
Rodents
Trout + Korvemin
Rodents
Chicken hearts
Then the sequence starts again.
● Why food types are not mixed
Each feeding consists of either rodents or trout exclusively.
Mixed meals often lead to young animals selectively eating their preferred components while leaving others behind.
Separating food types ensures a more even nutrient intake.
● Thiaminase – a key issue for fish-eating snakes
● What is thiaminase?
Thiaminase is an enzyme that breaks down vitamin B1 (thiamine), rendering it useless.
Thiamine is essential for:
energy metabolism
nervous system function
muscle coordination
A long-term deficiency can lead to severe neurological disorders.
● Why Korvemin does not compensate for thiaminase
A common misconception is that vitamin supplements such as Korvemin can compensate for the effects of thiaminase.
This is not the case.
Although Korvemin contains vitamin B1, it cannot neutralise thiaminase.
The enzyme acts directly in the digestive tract and breaks down the vitamin before it can be absorbed by the body.
➡ As long as thiaminase is present in the feed, even a high vitamin supplement will be ineffective.
Korvemin is therefore only suitable as a supplement to thiaminase-free feed types, not as protection against thiaminase.
● Dealing with refusal to eat
● Damp moss as a safety zone
One method that has proven particularly effective in my practice is the use of a slightly damp moss hiding place.
The moss is not wet, but only slightly damp
It is located in a quiet corner of the terrarium
Young animals that are currently not eating often retreat to this area.
If the food is offered directly in front of the moss, many animals leave their hiding place and accept it.
My own observation:
The moss conveys an increased sense of security. From a protected position, the animals eat in a much more relaxed manner – especially sensitive young animals.
● Emergency food: live guppies
If they continue to refuse food, I offer live guppies.
Offered live only
Used only for a short time
Not as permanent food
They serve to trigger the feeding reflex again.
● Why earthworms are only used in exceptional cases
Earthworms are not part of my regular feeding plan.
Worms from fishing shops or nature can be carriers of:
Nematodes (roundworms)
Cestodes (tapeworms)
Bacterial contamination
For this reason, I only use earthworms in absolute emergencies.
● Practical implementation in everyday life – the feeding plan
I use a magnetic feeding plan.
After each feeding, the magnet is moved to the next planned type of food.
This system:
prevents accidental repetitions
ensures that only one type of food is offered per meal
facilitates control over multiple animals
● Terrarium structure and safety
A structured environment promotes feeding and well-being.
Raised resting areas (e.g. cork bark)
Climbing branches at different levels
Retreat areas on the ground and at height
● Conclusion
The feeding method presented here is based on several years of personal experience and has proven itself in my husbandry.
It is not the only standard, but rather a practical guide that can also be used in combination with other methods.
Patrick brümmer
thamnophisgarter@gmx.de
Image descriptions
1: Young animal on raised cork surface under the spotlight – relaxed behaviour
2: Slightly damp moss as a retreat
3: Overall view of a structured breeding terrarium
4: Korvemin ZVT + Reptil as a vitamin and mineral supplement
5: Magnetic feeding plan to control feeding intervals and food rotation